The North Lakhimpur Road & River Trip – There and back again

Bogibeel has been the lifeline for people of north and south Brahmaputra banks of Upper Assam. It connects Dhemaji with Dibrugarh. Ferry travel has been the longest means of transport. There is an emotion attached. A journey is a beautiful way to rejuvenate oneself. 

The Bogibeel bridge after a long haul is nearing to completion. So where our thoughts are placed now? How are we going to get accustomed to the upcoming new ways!

In early April this year, I made a journey from Dibrugarh to meet my cousins in North Lakhimpur Town. Being a Guwahatian, this was my first time through Bogibeel. In the past, I took the Kolia Bhomora Setu (bridge) route through Tezpur. 

Suddenly a thought came to my mind, “Perhaps-this-very-first-Bogibeel-ferry-journey will also be my-last-Bogibeel-journey since the bridge is finally in a mood to welcome us.” 

Dibrugarh side of Brahmaputra

I thanked almighty for giving me a chance to make the crossing and be a part of the people’s history associated with it. On April 3, 2018 I started my journey from Dowerah Chuk locality adjacent to Dibrugarh University. I reached DU Haat (Marketplace of the University) by 8.30 am; had tea, Maggie and omelette for breakfast. 

I waited around 5 minutes when a Bolero car arrived and arrived Jamira. Gathering more passengers, it made to its destination by 9.30 am. I was on the sands of Bogibeel ghat (port sort-of). I missed a private ferry by a fraction of a second. 

Luckily the government ferry was yet to start. As it arrived, slugs of people pushed me to get a seat inside. I too went to the lower level along with the flow. Then the cars and motorcycles were lined carefully atop. The operator started the ferry with the loud roar of the engine. The mini voyage hence began at 10.00 am. 

I looked through the window at the vast expanse of the waters of Brahmaputra. Ten minutes went by, I decided to climb the mid-level where the cars were lined. There was little space available to stand. I squeezed myself into a tiny corner and stood taking in the whole majestic view.

I got starstruck by the overpowering spell of the vast expanse. Above me was the shining blue sky, my feet held onto the ferry floor and my eyes became spectator of the grand maha-bahu Brahmaputra. There was a cool breeze and the flag flapped vigorously. 

At the top deck, people sat on benches while some of them crouched on the floor. The phone signal went off which made me realise that I was completely engulfed under the wraps of nature. 

I saw other ferries approaching from the opposite direction carrying people, goods and vehicles. I reckoned, how this age old mode of transport has been so much of a contribution to society. The ferry cruised taking turns. The water level was less due to winter, hence there were chances of the ferry getting stuck on the river bed. The operator smartly maneuverer the ferry in twist and turn avoiding the shallow waters. Meanwhile, he also made an on the spot business of selling red tea and snacks to passengers.

Cycle loaded with goods transported on the ferry to Dhemaji

In another one hour it reached the other end. I was in Dhemaji district now. As the ferry approached, all four wheeler drivers started yelling at their highest pitch they could produce at the ferry passengers. The rush and chaos is part of the transport. 

We were chased by the taxis like in a geese-hunt. We were ushered and surrounded at the same time. One driver from front waved and rushed towards us, while another one from left and one from behind tried to catch us and get us loaded in-to their taxis like we were poultry!

My friend, Madhu had forewarned me about these geese hunts. I asked one of them I will go to Lakhimpur town. He said that he will go there. I hopped onto it but then I was not sure as he was collecting passengers bound for another route opposite to Lakhimpur town. It was a trick. 

Then another driver yelled North Lakhimpur town. I finally decided to leave the vehicle and jump on the green jeep; which looked like one of those Jungle Utility vehicles (JUV if I may say so !) used in the Jurassic Park movie; and reached Kulajaan. So, the jeep was not bound to North Lakhimpur after all. 

Dhemaji side of Brahmaputra

Then I boarded a Traveller actually bound to North Lakhimpur in Kulajaan. In seconds, it was full and the new driver after adjusting and squeezing more passengers tightly in the already full vehicle, started the trip. 

Crossing Sissiborgaon and carrying more passengers on the way, I reached Dhemaji town in one hour. It is a small town. There were few building at most two-three stories. But there was a feel of energy. I love travelling small towns. There is a much close knit among people there. And in villages, the knit is most tightly wrapped around.

There was a halt for fifteen minutes. Again, the vehicle was on the road. The whole road from Kulajaan to North Lakhimpur town is so well maintained and is a delight to pass through the curvy roads at places. Greenery on both sides, there were lines of tree at some areas, pockmarked by bridges above the tributaries of Brahmaputra. 

It was like this, we entered a small settlement on both sides of the highway, roughly running one kilometre. Then we re-entered the green pastures and fields with view of hills far away. I felt those were of Arunachal Pradesh which is so nearby around 9-10 km. Then again after travelling thirty minutes we entered another small settlement of same length. Again there was vast farming lands. All the way, the air so fresh to breadth in. 

In Gogamukh, there was a very long haul. A lady with her daughter continuously argued with the Traveller driver of being so much late. She was to catch a bus from Lakhimpur in another three hours. She urged him to start the vehicle, he refused and kept on saying to wait for just-another-ten-minutes’ multiple times. 

When the lady’s bickering reached a heated point, the driver lost his temper. He too joined her league and started bickering. He argued that he cannot start the vehicle empty. If there is less passenger, there is no business for him in transport. 

Their argument continued. In such situation we just cannot take sides, because both are correct in their part. The lady has to catch a bus and driver has to earn his bread.

For almost one hour. I patiently sat in my sit. At last, the driver started the vehicle. So after another three hours, with a sigh of relief, crossing Subansiri river, Padumoni park and Boginodi I was gradually nearing my cousins. 

The Curved and elevated highway near Sisiborgaon

I phoned my uncle as I reached nearer. I dropped at Ahuchaul Gaon, CD Road where I greeted him and his sweet little daughter, Borokha. His wife was waiting in the house to welcome me. I met my lovely eldest aunt too. By evening, I greeted my Dongor Khuri. Then, I met my youngest aunt, her husband and their daughters Dona and Priya. We all gossiped a lot. 

Next morning arrived my middle aunt from Pohumora town with her daughter, Volga; who was in her X standard and was anxious about her metric exam results. Her elder brother Kunal, was out of town. We had lunch when their father, my uncle too arrived from Pohumora. I was so happy, finally to be again at the very home where my father grew up with his siblings and parents. 

I was surrounded with all my uncles, aunts and all the cousin sisters. Now, I felt my paternal family was complete. Apart from my big joint maternal family, I have lived most of part of my life so far in a nuclear family. This time I was with the amidst the big gathering of my paternal family. 

I also greeted the neighbouring cousins. I went to visit them and relished on old memories. Almost the whole people of that locality is somehow a relative. It is like a very big family of cousins. The whole neighbourhood is a huge family. Such a close knit among people. It is incredible.

All were excited about Bogibeel bridge. They told me how easy it will become. Once the bridge is inaugurated, there will be daily busses, Travellers, magic cabs for general public. There will be a lot of time saving and no trouble of changing four-five vehicles.  Also, Since Bogibeel Bridge is a rail-cum-road bridge, the recent pilot train run trial being successful; soon there will be train services to and fro. The people are very happy. 

41 years ago; on 1977. 21st June, four eminent persons from Dibrugarh met then Prime Minister of India, Mooraji Desai with a letter. They requested him to help build a bridge on the Brahmaputra at Bogibeel to ease the lives of its people. That moment was the starting point of this history.

They were Assam Assembly speaker Ramesh Chandra Barua, Dibrugarh University Former Rector Lakhi Pasad Dutta, Dibrugarh Citizens Association member and Advocate, Binanda Chandra Barua and Bobaruah Social worker and Panchayat Representative Jagat Chandra Neog. Another person who could not go to New Delhi was Dilip Singh a member of Dibrugarh Citizens Association.

At that time people thought of their idea as futile. How was it possible to build a bridge over one of the widest river of the world? Just the average width Brahmaputra is itself 10 km. 

And now, after all these years, their dream is come to fruition soon. The idea has become a reality. Bogibeel Bridge has a length of 4.94 km becoming the longest Rail-cum-Road bridge in India.

At the same time, the ferry journey is on the verge of becoming history. There will be modification of livelihood of people associated with it. There will be a lot of changes just like the Dhola-Sadiya bridge story. There will be newer ways of income and livelihood. Aptly said, Change is the only constant in this world.

I also met a dear friend of mine from M. Tech days, Madhu. She is from Dhemaji who works in a bank and posted in North Lakhimpur town. I met her almost after two and a half years ago. North Lakhimpur is a small town. You won’t find your regular city life Malls or food joints like Dominoes or KFCs or for that matter super heavy luxury restaurants to relish on exotic dishes. So, we did old school. 

We went to a local small restaurant serving simple tea and sweets and snacks. The walls were worn out, tables were okay. But whatsoever, it helped us to get into a discussion. There was so much sharing of nostalgia between us over the snacks. 

We discussed about each other’s time spent these two and half years. We talked about friends, where those people are now and how they are. We clicked selfies, one though her phone and one using mine. After tea, we walked out and strolled near her rented place. I bade her goodnight and we vowed to keep in touch. Another 400 metres and I reached my cousins.

So the last day came knocking, After a hearty breakfast, I bade them goodbye on April 5. I went with my youngest uncle to town centre and boarded a Traveller. Travelling through the same beautiful scenic road, I crossed Dhemaji Town once again reached Kulajan by noon. Soon I was at the river bank. I traced my return journey on the ferry. 

Dhemaji Daily Market

This time I went up the top deck, sat on the floor, put on my polaroid sunglasses and cap and stared endlessly at the river. I saw the majestic and tall bridge so much closer and from below, huge concrete and metallic structures and trusses connecting the two land masses on the opposite banks. It took a longer time of one and half hour to reach the opposite ghat.

A bus parked in the ghat helped me reach Dibrugarh by 3.00 pm. It was a memorable trip. I got emotional. Never had I hoped to get a chance one day in a ferry of Bogibeel, but I always yearned for it. My wish was fulfilled. 

The bridge is arriving and I hope we will be able to keep this tradtion alive in some way. Perhaps there can be awesome cruise trips on the river for tourists just like we have in Kachari ghat of Guwahati. 

The Bogibeel Bridge as seen from Dibrugarh

There can be exotic resorts and parks for recreation. We will always relish on the fact that those Bogibeel ferries have been a lifeline for decades to the people of Assam and will always inspire us. 

Joi Aai Asom.